I learned years ago how to add a hidden waistband to my favorite skirt pattern. The look was entirely different. When I made a skirt using my new found skill, I had a finished product that looked like it came from an expensive clothing store. Several of my co-workers wanted to know if I saved for a high-end skirt. I showed one friend who was a well-known seamstress proof that I made the skirt. She let everyone know that I had some skills. I loved it. I used Chino fabric that I found on sale. I carefully chose a silk-like fabric for a lining.
Sharing this secret with you is no problem at all. Just follow the steps carefully and you will have more than one skirt in your wardrobe without buying new patterns.
You will need:
- · Measuring tape and ruler
- · Pattern fabric- this is available at any sewing store or online
- · Your favorite skirt pattern
- · Fabric for your skirt and waistband
- · Interfacing
- · Lining fabric if desired
I used a simple A-line skirt pattern for this. Lay the pattern on a table and decide how wide a waistband you would like to have. I started with a two-inch wide band; after testing I went with a three-inch wide band.
Place your pattern fabric under the waist of your skirt pattern. You’ll be working with both the front and back pattern pieces. Pin or weigh the pattern fabric and pieces down. You don’t want them moving while you’re working.
Measure the distance from your pattern’s waistband to your desired distance. For example, I measured three inches from the edge of the pattern and made a mark. You’ll add seam allowances later. Your new stitching line will match the stitch line on the waistband.
Continue to do this along the entire pattern piece. If your skirt has multiple pattern pieces, mark them all. Do not worry about anything else right now.
Connect your marks and add side marks to your new waistband. Do not remove the pattern fabric yet. The side marks should be straight; do not match the curve of your pattern piece.
If your skirt has darts or gathers, mark them on your waistband piece. Make sure the marks are straight- do not follow curves or angles.
Before removing your skirt pattern pieces, add seams to the top and sides of your waistband pattern piece.
Remove the skirt pattern(s) and mark the bottom of your waistband. Add a seam.
Cut your new pattern pieces out. Fold the darts and gathers out and secure in place with tape or sew them closed with needle and thread. Your new waistband will be form-fitting. This allows the skirt to appear to hang on by itself.
Make a test waistband from fabric similar in weight and texture to your fashion fabric. Put it on around your waist. If it does not fit, adjust your pattern piece now.
Make your skirt according to the pattern’s directions. Make a waistband with your new pattern. Add interfacing to the inside of the waistband inside the sewing seams.
Attach your waistband to your skirt and attach the lining if so desired. The right sides of the fabric will be together.
Trim the excess fabric close to the sewing seam. This eliminates bulk when you turn the waistband inside.
If your skirt needs a zipper, insert it now. I switched from a regular zipper to a hidden zipper for my fashion skirt. I used a hook and eye for a top closure.
Turn the waistband to the inside of the skirt. Press in place using a press cloth. You can stitch the waistband to the inside seams to help it stay in place, but this really isn’t necessary.
There should be little to no ease in the waistband. I used a half-inch of ease to allow me to tuck in lightweight blouses.
Ease is the distance from the clothing to your body. For example, my waist is 27″. The waistband is 27.5″ long.
Finish and hem your new skirt.
This waistband can be added to virtually any skirt pattern for an updated look.
Write the pattern name and number on your new waistband pieces. If they become lost, you will know where they belong.
Source: The author of this article has over 40 years of experience in diverse forms of DIY, home improvement and repair, crafting, designing, and building furniture, outdoor projects, RV’ing and more.